Day 3 - Geraldine to Oamaru

We stopped at two farms in inland South Canterbury and North Otago and watched two different methods of working stock - by dog and by drone! Of the two, the drone was the most effective in finding the sheep, but the hustling dogs were better at putting the sheep through gates. however, the way of the future?

we stopped for lunch at a small town called Kurow, and I had an interesting chat with a bikie, who told me he was on  medicinal cannabis to cope with a back injury, but his medication sometimes leaves him feeling a bit wobbly. Despite looking a bit fearsome, he was quite a lovely chap.

We arrived at Oamaru and, in the evening, watched rafts (that is the technical term) of little blue penguins
coming ashore. Alas, no good photos of this sea-to-land migration.

Day 4 - Oamaru to Dunedin

The day started with a tour of the historic precinct of Oamaru, which also happens to be the home of Steam Punk in New Zealand - some marvellous creations! Then we were off to a visit to Totara Station, a - literally! - restored 19th Century farm that had been the site of the first kill for the frozen meat trade,that was the making of the New Zealand economy. All of the 19th Century buildings had been restored, and it was run a bit like a living museum, as well as still paying its way. It was well done.

Then to Moeraki for lunch and to Taeroa Heads to see the Albatross Colony. It was just too cold and bitter to go to the colony itself, but we saw quite a few albatrosses wheeling overhead.

The bus went to Baldwin Street, the world's steepest street. I ducked off to see my Granny's house at 392 North Road. It was a mistake. What had been a beautiful, immaculate house and garden had fallen into major disrepair. Sometimes it is not wise to go back. We stayed at the beautiful and historic Leviathon Hotel.

Day 5 - Dunedin to Invercargill

We took the coastal route via the Catlins region. We stopped off for 

• Nugget point lighthouse
• Two different waterfalls
• A petrified forest on a beach
• An Irish pub for dinner..

Day 6 - Invercargill to Stewart Island

We started the day with a trip to Bluff Lookout. It gave a marvellous view of the (very flat) Southland plains, not unlike the Essex fens (privately, I find Invercargill THE most boring town in the whole of New Zealand). The trip across to Stewart Island was in a catamaran ferryboat seating about 50. It was a beautiful clear day and a smooth and easy trip.
Stewart Island has a small town (permanent population approx. 400, with maybe twice as many trampers and tourists), and all the rest is pristine bush. We started our visit with a trip around what roads there were - a nice chatty driver. The island is all one could hope for: beautiful bush, full of wildlife.

In the afternoon, some of us took a water taxi over to Ulva Island, a strictly protected island (Stewart Island does suffer from having fallow deer). Both the bush and the bird life showed the difference.

The evening was spent spotting kiwi. One spotted me and kept looking for bootlaces to chew on my shoes.

Day 7 - Oban to Invercargill.

Spent the night at a backpacker's - a new experience for me. A free day on Stewart Island. I took a leisurely stroll through a very polished and informative museum, followed by a 3-hour solitary walk through untouched, primeval forest. I did not see another soul except for many birds. The weather held beautifully until the very end of the walk, and then drizzle set in. We caught the ferry at 3pm, and rain set in as we reached the mainland. Off to Speights Alehouse for bangers and mash. I feel a bit more forgiving of Invercargill.

Day 9 - Invercargill to Alexandra

A good and eventful day, enhanced by fine weather. We had several very interesting stops.

1. Morning tea at Lumsden, where I added to my walking stick with a stick carved from Southland beech. A bit heavy for general use, but very beautiful. More on this stick later.
2. Lunch at the top of the gondola terminal at Queenstown. Beautiful scenery, but Queenstown itself is very busy and rather tacky.
3. Stopped off at Arrowtown, which has totally retained its character and heritage while expanding tenfold from what it was a few years ago. Very beautiful.
4. Another stopoff at a fruit orchard and shop (real fruit ice cream) and an inspiring rose garden.

We pulled up at Alexandra at about 5pm and put togetther a bbq tea.( PS Pictures are in reverse order)

Day 9 - Alexandra to Omarama

1. We visited a high-country sheep station where they are raising prize-winning merinos with incredibly fine wool. It is extraordinary country, more suited to growing rocks, thyme and briar roses than grass.
2. We called in to 2-paddocks winery, owned by Sam Neill. it is like a big hobby farm, with pet pigs, pet ducks, small fruit and large fruit orchards, and a serious vineyard and winery putting out good quality wine. It is all very pleasant and laid back, and I came away with a couple of bottles.
3. On to another high-country sheep station for afternoon tea and a discussion about wallabies, which are currently a greater nuisance than rabbits.
Into Omarama for dinner.

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Day 10 - Omarama to Christchurch

Off at 8.30, we stopped at the Clay Cliffs - very similar to the Palliser Bay Pinnacles, but with a narrow

cleft to pass through. We interrupted a film crew filming a rock band. There were lupins for miles - very pretty. I might plant some myself. Next stop was Tekapo for a photo op, and then on to Pleasant Point, to see a totally automated dairy shed, where the cows choose when to come in to be milked. They step into a bail, and the machine, using sensors, takes over. It was a 400+ herd, and there seemed to be a steady stream of customers. Left to themselves, the cows average about 1.7 milkings per day. It was quite outstanding to watch. There is always a shed hand in attendance in case of accident, or to wash down the shed ,etc., but he did not appear to be over-exercised.

A strong nor-wester made the drive from Ashburton to Christchurch quite hazardous as they buffetted the bus across the road. Back to Christchurch, to find numerous Chrstmas parties going on at the motel.

Day 11, Christchurch 

Two trips only today, both cut short by rainy weather. The first was to Pyramid Valley, where thousands of Moa bones have been found in a swamp - many complete skeletons. The owners have wisely put a covenant on the land, allowing only about one excavation a decade, so that the bones are retained in place for future generations to dig up. The second trip was to a sheep farm specialising in Corriedale sheep. Very pleasant and hospitable host and hostess.

Shearing and sheep dog demonstrations were cancelled due to rain, so we returned to Christchurch early, whereat I farewelled the group and went home with Graham and Lyn in Christchurch.

 

Days 12 and 13, Christchurch

Day 12 was a delightful day. We started out with a short trip to Brighton Pier and coffee next door to the Brighton Library. Brighton Town Centre, post earthquake, is looking well past its best, with many empty shops, but it seems to be in good spirits. After lunch, we went for a drive to Lyttelton, which is looking quite lovely - very alternative - and took a free ferry trip, courtesy of Gold Card, to Diamond Harbour and back. We came back over the shoulder of the Port Hills to Sumner and Brighton.

Day 13 was nothing to write home about. Graham and I went in to Christchurch by bus to the library and to New Regent Street. We sat in the Library as a spectacular electric storm raged around us. We went to New regent Street for a coffee, and came home, and that was about it. Dodgy weather.

Day 14, Christchurch to Martinborough

All very straightforward, except for a small contretemps over the Walking Stick. Carrying two walking sticks, I thought I might check one in as  cargo baggage. That was going to cost me another $45, so I thought, "That is silly." So Graham and I went upstairs for a coffee, and then went to go through Security. the Security Guard stopped me and said, "Sir, that stick looks more like a club than a stick. You can't take it on board. You will have to go back downstairs and check it in. Downstairs I go, and it is too late to check in baggage for my flight. Back upstairs, and "No, you definitely cannot take it on the plane with you. Impasse. And time had run out. In the end, Graham took the stick to post to me, and I got through security as the flight deck was phoning me to ask where I was. I told them I was suffering a storm in a teacup. But all came out in the wash, and the stick has arrived, many thanks to Graham's kindness.

It was lovely to be off on the trip, and it is lovely to be home.