Stewart Island, December 2023

When I heard of this proposed trip through the lower South Island and Stewart Island, I was delighted. It promised coverage of several items on my bucket list - the Catlins, Stewart Island - that I really wanted to see, plus a few other places that I was more than happy to revisit. 

The format of the  tour - a group of 21, on a bus tour arranged by a local driver - left me slightly apprehensive. Some of my fears were realised, but in the main, the tour format enhanced the trip. I found, for instance, that my back was just not designed to sit in a bus seat for any length of time. By the end of the first morning, I was in agony and thought I would simply have to cancel the whole trip. But the kindly driver, noticing my pain, conjured up a pillow and sat me in splendour in the back seat of the bus, and my back problems were resolved.  And the local knowledge of the driver, Pete, was a wonderful asset. Instead of just taking us to standard 'spots', he took us to various farms and out of the way places that gave us an insider's view of the place. My hat off to Pete.

Day 1, Martinborough to Christchurch

An uneventful start to the trip. I drove to Wellington, met up with Dom, who drove me to the airport. A pleasant flight down to Christchurch, then a $50 taxi ride to the Redwood Hotel, which was not far from the airport. I paid what was on the meter. The driver said, "No tip?" I just said, "I'm a Kiwi, mate." The hotel was a bit old and dated, but the restaurant served blue cod to die for.

Day 2, Christchurch to Geraldine

A few miles out of Christchurch, we stopped at NeveleR horse stud.

Our next stop was at a wonderful whimsy, a 'music farm'. It was a lovely house and garden just out of Geraldine that reflected the owner's passion for music. The garden was full of musical motifs and other memorabilia, and the house had a hall, where we sat down to a participatory music session. Then, after a light lunch, we were provided a Christmas music concert provided by violin and cello.. I had to say, it brought joy to my heart, and then a tear to my eye when I thought of the two family musicians who have been taken from us. I must not let the music fade. The whole experience was very moving.

Proceeds from the visit went to the local hospice.

In the afternoon, we turned inland and visited 'Erewhon' high country station, originally made famous by the 19th Century writer Samuel Butler. They obviously took their early heritage seriously. They still breed and use Clydesdale horses in preference to motorised farm machinery or transport. We were tqken for a ride around the steep property on horse-drawn cart and told of the horses' idiosyncrasies and of the challenges of farming a high country station. On the way back, we stopped briefly at a station with an interesting name.